Socks Packing Socks....

Wednesday 15, October: After our morning S & H we headed for the Central Train station...cheese and prosciutto on our minds. We dealt with a rather cranky, non-english speaking gentleman at the bigletteria, but managed to get a ticket for a train to our sister city, Parma, that left in 3 minutes...not a bad thing except the train station is under consturction and not easy to access. We made it before the train left, but all the seats appeared to be reserved seats (and our ticket was not); Jim did not rest easy until our ticket had been punched...without any fines! The last time we went to Parma we went on a Tuesday and the (entire) town was closed. This time we went on Wednesday...market day, oh, boy market day!! If you want to see Jim's face twitch just make the sound of small plastic horses!! They are everywhere! He even "accidentally" stepped on one! And he used to think it was just the Vespas here that made him crazy! We finally located the cheese store and with the help of a really nice cheese man sent some home....not the whole 40kg wheel (you figure out how many pounds that is!!) but a really big chunk! The price per kg has caused Jim to put the cheese in the safe...so don't expect a taste! We managed to find an Italian book I had been looking for in every book store in Italy. I had originally seen it at the Uffizi Gallery book store, of all places, and not been able to find since- "Prosciutto e Uovo Verde" (Green Eggs and Ham). I also bought the cups to make espresso marrachino (Uncle Jim has created a monster!!). Visited the city's visitor center "The Parma Point". Jim told them he was the mayor of Stockton and they said they thought he was the mayor of Vernazza! Grabbed some bread and headed back to Milan.


Thursday 16, October: After a really good episode of S & H (we almost missed the breakfast cutoff!), the post office can be avoided no longer. A little last minute shopping to fill up the extra large box. And fill it I have! We have reservations for dinner at Da Bruno. I thought the guy was going to cry when we said we wanted to have our last dinner at his restaurant. After a dry run on how to reach the Malpensa Express Train to the airport we went back to the castle. We saw Michelangelo's Pieta Rondanini in the museo di arte antica (museum of ancient art). (Jimmy the thrifty got in for free since it was after 4:30...what a bargain!) Michelangelo was working on it four days before he died. Since it is an unfinished work they really don't care much about it and it is one of the few pieces of his that you can get really close to. You can get right up next to it close enough to take a picture , which I did, even though it wasn't allowed. After they chased us and our illegal photographic equipment out of the museum, we headed back to finish packing and prepare for "The Departure" and our dinner at Da Bruno. Stay tuned for the details of the flight...and if you know us there will be a story!!

Socks Sit For Last Supper.....

Saturday 11, October: Bought another sciarpa before leaving Varenna...a girl can never have too many sciarpe...Jim was cursing the train schedule that left us time to shop one more time in the five available stores!! Arrived in Milan...it's warmer and that's nice, but way more people than tiny Varenna...many more stores though (sorry Jim!). Went for a walk and located a restaurant where we ate when we were here in 2000. Looks like it is no longer run by the same people, but the food is still good. Spent most of the day trying to get away from the crowds...it's people Jim just can't stand!



Sunday 12, October: Went and made a reservation at Da Bruno. It's a restaurant owned by a man from Volterra (thank you Rick Steves), it's just too much of a coincidence so we are going to celebrate our one month anniversary there tomorrow. To escape the crowds we did like the rest of the Milanese...we went to the Castello Sforza and it's beautiful, huge, surrounding park. On the way Jim said we should pick up a picnic lunch at the bakery suggested by Rick Steves that is near the castle entrance...a couple hours later after talking to two grumpy giornali guys and one very kind little old lady walking her dog...we got some bread at different bakery (thanks a lot Rick Steves!) and went to the castle. It was beautiful. We sat under the trees (like the rest of the Italians) and listened to the concert going on in another part of the grounds. It was so peaceful and reminded us of our visit to the Borghese Park in Rome (it seems so long ago!!). We returned to our hotel...TV is back and we watched two episodes of "Amici"(Friends) and an episode of "Colombo" (still Colombo). Jim went to bed dreaming of Starchini & Hutchollo....

Monday 13, October: It has been a true Luna di Miele...one month and they said it wouldn't last (mostly Jim): The day start with...yes, Starchini & Hutchollo....the post office can't be far away! We went on a walk along the Golden Triangle of shopping, every high end, name brand, "oh my gosh can that really be the price", store you have ever heard of is in this area. Lucky for Jim, Milan...is chiuso (closed) on the Monday morning. He seemed to have misplaced the free map by the afternoon. We went to dinner at Da Bruno. They treated us so special and when dinner was over and we were finally able to communicate to the waiter why we had chosen this restaurant for our dinner, the owner came over and brought us a glass of prosecco for a toast, sat down and over a plate of cantucci (I have so missed the cantucci) talked about Volterra with us. He was born in Volterra (his family owns and runs the big alabaster store at the entrance to town) and lived there until he was 26. His job was to bring the alabaster into Milan. One day he had lunch at Da Bruno, and then bought the restaurant. Walked home under a full moon and to complete the evening we found the Grom gelateria of Milan (yum, Pam!!)

Tuesday 14, October: Yes, Starchini & Hutchollo again. We went shopping where we could actually say the prices. Totally irrated the man at the local Cafè over some espresso cups. And then put on our walking shoes for some culture. We went to the Ultima Cena (the Last Supper). We saw it when we were here last time, but it is much more popular now (since Da Vinci Code). The author Dan Brown believes that the painting portrays Jesus sitting next to his wife, Mary and that their bodies form the feminine "V". Jim believes that they are a couple who have been married for a month and a day and are trying to get away from each other.

Socks Take A Five Hour Tour....

Tuesday 7, October: We took in some outdoor culture today. Went to visit Villa Monastero. The villa itself is closed except for the weekends (ok...we missed that) but the gardens are beautiful. All of the plants and trees have signs with their names, scientific and common, printed on them...very educational. Jim wanted to pick some of the pompelmo rosso and make some gelato...sorry Pam no stracciatella trees!

When we were finished we walked up to the Hotel Eremo Gaudis. It is built into the mountain and you have to take a funicular up to the hotel and restaurant. To finish the day we called Chef Moreno from Il Caminetto and he drove down the mountain and took us back to his restaurant in Gittana, a fifteen minute ride up a VERY winding, one lane road. It was a wonderful meal. We were the only people in the restaurant so it was like having our own private chef (just like George!). I had missoltini he had made himself from an old family recipe. it was a fun evening of talking, discussions of food, family and world politics. He gave me his email address so I can practice my Italian (he doesn't know what he got himslef into there!).

Wednesday 6, October: We awoke to clouds and a few sprinkles but decided to take the slow boat to China...I mean Como. We boarded the battello in Varenna and took it down the western leg of Lake Como to the town of Como. The battello stops in ten small towns along the way and takes about 2 1/2 hours...one way. We planned on shopping in Como (some sweet ladies from Cork that we've seen a couple of times mentioned a big market) and locating some traditional Neopolitan pizza. The view from the battello was amazing. It looks like there are a hundred tiny little towns all stuck here and there in the mountains and along the lake. It looks like a Disneyland ride with all the miniture hamlets and here and there... a castle. Arrived in Como to discover the market is on the weekend (ok...we missed that). We did however find the pizza....Jim has a nose for that kind of thing! Took the ride back and then went to our room to warm up. We ate dinner at the restaurant in the hotel where we are staying...tonight so did Chef Moreno and his family and the owners of the restaurant across the way!

Thursday 9, October: It seems the 5 hours in the open air battello has given me a cold so we headed to the farmacia for medication. They gift wrap the drugs for you here...isn't that sweet....when you don't feel good you get a gift. Jim can criuse Alaska and Lake Como in the rain in short sleeve shirts...I can't! We took the autotraghetto to Menaggio for the afternoon...however it is closed on the Thursday (yes...the whole town). There is a beautiful promenade along the lake and at the end....miniature golf of course! The "mini gol" looked hard. There is no carpet for friction to slow down the ball and (Karyn will understand this!) an elevated tee..like in the pros! We eventually found a bar that was open and had lunch. Cruised back to Varenna (only 29 minutes across the lake!) and relaxed on the deck.

Friday 10, October: Back to the farmacia...more drugs, different drugs. When to the lake edge and collected some lake glass (Chris and Pam) and then went back to do some laundry...things are looking less pink these days. And then just relaxed and enjoyed the view.

Beautiful Socks, Beautiful People...

Saturday 4, October: Sadly it's Saturday and no Starchini & Hutchollo and no time for a visit with our PI friends. We are off to catch the vaporetto for the train station. After getting off the vaporetto, but before going into the train station, we decided to walk over the final bridge that crosses the Grand Canal (with all of our luggage!!), so now we've crossed them all...four for four!! On the train when all of the little old Italian ladies reached into their purses and began pulling out lunch for all the little old Italian men...we reached into our bag and pulled out our luch too. One sweet old guy toasted us with his bread and hard boiled egg. We arrived in Varenna on Lago Di Como.....

enough said.

Sunday 5, October: Jim has done his research and Varenna only has five stores, and one of them is a hair salon...thank goodness because these socks have shopped 'till they dropped in Venice and are looking forward to just kicking back. We had a tasty breakfast with a view of the lake. Grabbed my sweater and headed down the stairs. One of the four actual stores is at the bottom of the stairs....and I now own a new purple pashmina sciarpa! So much for not shopping (...it's really cold here I needed a scarf!!). Still looking for the PI...feeling a little lonely for some postal company! Headed for Bellagio tomorrow....lots of shops and looking for George (Clooney that is).

Monday 6, October: Another great breakfast (although Jim didn't have his morning pesca...have to find a pesca store in Bellagio!). Jumped on the autotraghetto (a people/car ferry) to Bellagio. Jim has been really studying the schedule and he was perfectly correct on the departure time (who had any doubts??).

Bellagio: Beautiful people, beautiful shops, beautiful pesce! I now own sciarpe in every color, for every climate. Walked down to the Punta, where you can see down both legs of the lake, and on a clear day (like today) north to the Alps...beautiful too!


Ate dinner at Jim's trattoria (Trattoria S. Giacomo), couldn't wait an hour for an indoor table (needed to catch the last ferry home) so we took the only free table, outdoors...sciarpa and trattoria provided blanket mandatory. To complete the beautiful day look at the beautiful person we spotted on a side street of Bellagio...not too happy about having his picture taken....

Socks Soak In Acqua Alta....

Thursday 2, October: After watching the morning episode of Starchini & Hutchollo and our morning visit to the PI (Italian post office), we headed back to the lavanderia. €66 (yes, you read that right, €66!) later, we left with our new pink wardrobe. Jim's green martini underwear are now serving cosmos! I guess I didn't stress enough the need for two loads of laundry...one bianca and one colori...even though they were in separate bags!! Oh well, we like pink. We went to another mask shop and bought masks for me and another one for Jim.

We walked over the Accademia bridge (we have now crossed 3 of the 4 bridges over the Grand Canal). We headed for the Sestiere of Dorsoduro to eat at a pizza place Jim read about. When we found it, Jimmy "not by the slice" Leonardini, wouldn't eat there since they only sold take out pizza. We ended up eating in an outdoor trattoria and watched some sort of college initiation party (lots of prosecco being consumed!). After lunch we found another Grom gelatoria! Yum really, really good gelato! We walked back to our hotel by way of the Rialto bridge and Jim bought me a fine Italian purple leather knitting bag (too cute!!). The owner comment that Jim must be Italian because "you have our face". As we left Jim commented, " I may have their face, but they have my money!!"

Friday 3, October: Of course, Starchini & Hutchollo and then it's back to the PI. This time we actually mailed two boxes home. We've heard the spare room already looks like the Posteitalia shipping warehouse! We wandered around the shops some more, after all we have a lot of room in our suitcases now! Bought bread and cheese and meats for the travel day on Saturday. There are the beginnings of Acqua Alta in Piazza San Marco, hopefully the weather will hold out until we get to the train tomorrow. We bought some pressings from a street artist and then headed to Harry's bar for a rest. We drank Bellinis next to Jeffrey Harharwood (Seinfeld) and the rest of the "beautiful people" (no pictures allowed). We decided to return to the restaurant we found by accident earlier in the week...our complete 3 course dinner with wine and espresso, was less than the two Bellinis at Harry's bar!

Socks Saunter Six Sestieri...

Tuesday 30, September: Awoke to another beautiful Venetian day. Jim has discovered Starchini & Hutchollo on morning television here (Yes, that is Starski & Hutch!!). We went to the post office (again) and then headed off for some target shopping. We are a little concerned as there seems to be more Acqua Alta tables being stacked in preparation of...well, Acqua Alta. We have a list of traditional mask makers and hoped to locate some of them and check on getting a mask. We went to the Rialto bridge and purchased a hand made leather-bound wedding scrapbook (thank you to our friends at the City of Stockton!!) and a hand made photo album for the wedding pictures (thank you, Ken and Yvonne!!). We also bought some beautiful paintings from a local artist.

Wednesday 1, October: After Starchini & Hutchollo and of course our morning visit to the post office (bear in mind...we have not mailed anything yet, just visited!!), we set off with our bags of dirty clothes in search of a laundry. We learned last time we were in Venice...clothes never dry here, they just grow mold. We actually located the lavanderia without too much trouble (ok, maybe Rick Steves is not an idiot after all). We headed off to visit some of the other Sestieri (the most visited are the Castello and San Marcos as that is where the Rialto and San Marcos are located). Jim finally broke down and bought a map (he refused to buy the €6.50 map...the €2.50 map will work just fine...look where that got us!...what you can't see is that one of these arrows is pointing into the Grand Canal)

We returned to the Rialto bridge so we could visit the shop of the mask maker who made all the masks for "Eyes Wide Shut". While we didn't buy one of his masks it was fun to see pictures of all the stars who have purchased masks from him. We walked all through Sestiere San Polo and couldn't find the mask maker on my list. We did finally find one, but she was closed for lunch. We decided to eat and had a great lunch at a little bar (ate lunch and people watched just like you wanted to do, Mom). After lunch we opted against any of the masks at that store and we headed to the next Sestiere, Santa Croce. In Santa Croce we actually located one of the mask makers on the list and Jim bought a beautiful mask from a mask maker who only spoke French!! Now that was a conversation to listen to! We walked across the new bridge, Il Ponte Calatrava, that was just constructed to cross the Grand Canal (prior to it's construction there were only three bridges that crossed the Grand Canal).

We headed for our next Sestiere, Cannaregio. We were looking for a restaurant that Jim's uncle had eaten at and told us about. Of course, in Venice there are no street names in the addresses, just Sestiere names and a number. We have yet to figure out the numbering system, but after talking to eight different people and getting directions as we went we found the restaurant, Osteria Quarante Ladrone. We had a great meal and a lot of fun. Jim finally got good counsel from Avvocato Giacomo. We decided that was enough walking for one day and took a vaporetto home and enjoyed a beautiful night cruise of the grand canal.

Socks Take Island Hops....

Saturday 27, September: Two week anniversary, and some said it wouldn't last....mostly Jim! We went back up to Fiesole for the weekly market...much like the town, not much of a market! Took the 1.3k scenic walk again for moving picture opportunities....get your popcorn ready! Had lunch and found the best thing about Fiesole...possibly the cleanest, nicest, public toliets we have ever seen- and Jim is quite the toliet critic! We had some really good gelato (Pam) and went back down the hill.

Sunday 28, September: Travel day. The wonderful, sweet owners of the Bencistà graciously gave us a ride up the hill to the bus stop...just like her mother eight years ago, she took off at full speed...before Jim was all the way in the car. I guess we can tell who teaches who to drive in that family!! Arrived in Venice without any hitches. The weather is beautiful and the hotel, Locanda al Leon, is lovely. They had a bottle of Prosecco and glasses waiting for The Newlyweds! Set out to do some exploring, against Rick Steve's advise we opted not to buy a map and just use the free one from the hotel (you know how thrifty Jim is). Two hours later we discovered that while our map has really pretty colors...not too many street names! Guess we'll but a map tomorrow. After a great dinner, headed back to Locanda al Leon(ardini) on Campo San Giacamo (Jim).

Monday 29, September: Caught the #41 vaporetto for the 45 minute ride to Murano. There we hussled into the Murano Mafia glass demonstation. Headed by Mikey Murano and his two brothers, Tommy "the Tazzo" and Bobby "Bicchiere" (that's Tommy the Cup and Bobby Glass for you Americanos!!). Of the 75 people admitted for the demonstration, Jim was singled out by Bobby Bicciere (insert Italian mafia accent)..."you can go to the gift shop, but I know a guy who can get you into the gallery...that's where you get the real stuff...the gift shop only has crap, you can get that anywhere. My guy has the goods..." . What the Murano mob didn't know is they were dealing with Jimmy "the Thrifty" (remember the 5 euro map he refused to buy before). did a lot of shopping and caught another vaporetto to Burano...it is just as pretty as all the pictures you see. There was a house for sale (address #13!)...hmmm...can you see Jim driving a boat? Did more shopping and bought the famous lace work and had a gelato. Headed back to Murano for some early Christmas shopping and then back to the main island. got really lost looking for somewhere to eat (hmmm...how many euros was that map?), but accidentally found a local hang out (menu is hand written with just general terms...you have to ask him what he has to serve). The food was amazing! Miraculously found our way home and had a victory gelato!

Socks Kick Back....

Wednesday 24, September: Thought the best way to recover from the crowds of Florence was to head up the hill to the little town of Fiesole....someone forgot to tell us the it really is just a wide spot in an autostrada type freeway. There were so many cars! Going to where we never really figured out but wow, a lot of cars! We did the 1.3 k walk around the outskirts of town and saw an amazing view of Florence, the Etruscan walls and the Roman ruins (yes, almost every town has some ruins!!). We discovered that the restaurant that we had hiked up to eat at actually isn't in Fiesole (shame on you Samantha Brown!!) so, we ate lunch with the locals ( I had tripe again...yum!) at a little place in town.

Thursday 25, September: Trouble with the internet sent us back to Florence earlier than expected. The bus ride down from Fiesole is crowded and not all that much fun! We went straight to the "Internet Train"...ok so we asked a lot people in order to find it (shame on you Rick Steves)...we prefer to think of this as getting to know the local people and practising our Italian. While on the internet, I discovered there was a yarn shop only one block away...of course, chuiso for lunch, but we returned! I bought some wonderful yarn, Karyn get the Twinkle books ready!! The women at the yarn shop were really nice, but didn't speak much english so I had a lot of fun discussing the yarn and some of the displays....Chris, when I get back I have the pattern (in my head...ok that is scary!) for a really cute crochet thing that even I can make! While we were waiting for the yarn shop to open, we went to the museo...but not just any museo, the Salvatore Ferragamo museum!!It was either view Michelangelo's David, or the shoes...such is married life, we saw the shoes! When we were finished Jim said...I enjoyed that, I'm not supposed to enjoy a shoe museum!! Again we ate with the locals at a small pizzeria (walls were covered in naked art...not that Jim noticed)...the pizza was great. Shopped until Jim dropped and then we headed back to the comfort of the Bencistà.

Friday 26, September: Happy Birthday Pam! We continue the search for Trattoria Le Cave Di Maiano. It turns out it is not the 1k hike up to Fiesole, but rather a 1k hike in the opposite direction to Maiano. Maiano is a really little town; really just a three way intersection (three very busy streets though!! Watch out!). At long last, Le Cave!! Started with the Penne with rabbit ragu...sorry Buggs...but it was tasty! Then came the big Ta-Da...what we had been waiting for.....the Bistecca Fiorentina, all one kilogram of it! And as you drug dealers know...that's a lot! Sadly, we ate it all....with a nice Chianti! We went to the only other building in town, a gelateria, but it was closed...not so happy birthday Pam! Thought about taking the long hike around the back of Fiesole, but decided against it. We opted to just hike 1k back up the hill and were satisfied we didn't roll back down.

Socks Step Into Culture....

Monday 22, September: We had our morning cappucino, sans our favorite cake...we were too early. Went to the Salumeria/formaggoria and the paneforia and got bread and cheese and meat for the road. Caught the (right) train and headed for Fiesole. After getting chased out of the first class section (oops...) we settled in for an uneventful ride. When we arrived at the Pensione Bencista, we had a wonderful lunch alfresco, overlooking Florence.










Tuesday 23, September: Feeling very confident after yesterday's travels we headed into Florence for a day of culture. We had reservations for the Ufizzi gallery. It was amazing, even with all the people it was so worth going to see. As Elaine Benes would say "ooooh the Botticelli's!!!", except these weren't shoes they were paintings! We had lunch at ZA ZA's...thanks Cindy! Heading back to the quiet, calmness of Fiesole!

Socks Are Washed....

Thursday 18, September: Jim doesn't even know what to say about this day! We trudged several blocks, up and down several sets of stairs to locate the "Self-Serve Laundry"...the one that ended up being located in the alley right next door to our hotel. With help from the nice Italian lady with all the change we started a load of wash and pulled up a chair...so far, so good. Four hours later we took our wet jeans up to our room to dry! End of day!


Friday 19, September: It is really raining, hmm.... it would be a great day to stay in and do wash...oh, that's right we already did that!! We grabbed ponchos and a train and headed to La Spezia....where there just happens to be a knitting store, very little else, but a knitting store! We found the knit store (with the help of three Italian men!!!) and 11 skeins later we set out to find the covered market and the weekly outdoor market. It was really fun despite the rain! When in Rome...we noticed all the La Spezia women carrying these zip-up rain bags and 1.40 euro later...we have one too (really good for keeping yarn dry!!)! During lunch, the rain cleared so we set out for the harbor and ended up taking a boat to Portovenere. Porovenere is the poor man's Portofino, so we were right at home. Just before reaching Portovenere we saw the most beautiful house...perfect for us. Now we just need to figure out the name of the town (tough to contact a realtor if you don't know the name of where you want to buy)!! Portovenere was beautiful and we had an amazing boat ride back home.

Saturday 20, September: One week anniversary!!! Jim is still trying to contact his attorney...where is Giacomo Simonelli when you need him? We had boxed up stuff and headed to the post office to mail them home. Let's just say, post office employees here are much the same as those in the states (no offense Elaine). The gentleman that helped us looked and acted exactly like Medavoy from NYPD Blue...what we really needed was Cliffy from Cheers....someone a little less by the book. Oh the mistakes we made...let's just say 2 hours and 140 euros later the packages are on their way...we hope! Had an espresso to calm ourselves and headed to Monterosso for....get ready for this...the annual Sagra delle Acciughe (the Anchovy Fesitval !) It was great! Acciughe everywhere! We met up with Berny (an Italian who lives here, near the Cinque Terre and I contacted through Ravelry). She had a yarn and knitting booth at the festival. She was wonderful and we made a new friend. She gave me some hand-dyed yarn and Jim a hand knitted, purple acciuga. We ate (too much!) at the fesitval and then took the boat back to Vernazza. Soon after returning the 5 o'clock church bells sounded, but this time they played an entire song...I think in celebration of our wedding one week earlier...to the minute.

Comencia La Luna Di Miele....

Monday 15, September: After walking up four stories carrying our suitcases, we arrived at the office for Albergo Barbara...and then went up a tiny spiral staircase..to our room. There is an amzing view of the tower from our window and we can hear the church bells...Jim is concerned they are not accurate to G.M.T...he's checking into it. He is also concerned that the Margarita pizza, a sanctioned food article here, is lacking the mandated basil...someone get on that too. We have discovered since arriving here in Vernazza that Jim is well, very important. Leonardini is the mayor. Everywhere we go and give his name people ask are you from here and then scurry off to tell eveyone in the place that Leonardini is here!!!! We are throwing his name around as much as possible...might as well take advantage! It rained most of the day. We had a delightful pizza (sans the basil...) outside, under an overhead tarp while it poured...it was so fun!

Tuesday 16, September: We took the train to Monterosso today. We went in search of a travel agent/boat guide. We hoped to book a boat tour to Genoa but learned that trips to Portofino had just stopped (on the 12th). It's ok, we had a great day shopping and waundering around new and old Monterosso. I think we are going back during the weekend...for the Acciuge Festival and no one wants to miss that! Picked up some sea glass (Chris) on the free beach (most beaches you have to pay to go on) and enjoyed the day. We confidently hopped on the train home, which did not stop in Vernazza and ended up in Riomaggiore. We then asked every italian speaking person we could find if the next train "ferma a Vernazza" and hopped, less confidently on the next train home. We made it in case you were concerned!!

Wednesday 17, September: We took the boat to Riomaggiore (hmmm...this looks very familiar!) had lunch at a snack bar (not what you think at all...YUM!!) and did some sight seeing. We then took the national Park trail "Via Del Amore" to Manarola (I have the lock to prove it). We bought a beautiful silk screened picture (on its way to "Jim's parent's house...remember article 143 of the Italian Civil Code...as I type) and did some sight seeing. We then caught a train to Corniglia. It is a tiny town waaay up on a hill. We opted against the bus, who wants to wait on the bus, and 20 minutes later as the bus flew past us, we were almost up the hill and into town. No problem, we wanted to walk anyway!! We gulped down what could possibly be the best lemon granita (ok, maybe we were just really hot and thirsty, but it was good!!). We shopped around for w while took some great pictures and decided that maybe we should help the town economy by taking the bus down the hill...well that would have worked if we had arrived at the stop at 15:15 instead of 15:16. That's when we discovered the 400 steps that lead down to (and up from) the train station...all peacefull and shaded! We arrived at the station...as our train pulled away, not a problem after again checking with half the population of Corniglia to verify the correct train to Monterosso we boarded the train (it was late of course since we only had 6 minutes to make the connection with the boat) and enjoyed the ride. We actually ran (not something you really want to try and picture!) to the boat in Monterosso but the ride was perfect! and it stopped in Vernazza also perfect! I took movies of the boat rides all along the Cinque Terra...popcorn and movies when we get home!!

Socks Tied In A Knot....

Thursday 11, September: We went to Florence today to do the official paperwork at the American Consulate. On the drive there (beautiful Tuscan hills by the way), Annie comments that she has called several times to be sure the Consulate will be open, since it is 9-11 and there might be some sort of observance. I ask do we have an appointment?...oh no, you can't make an appointment, it is first come first serve....oh that would be why we are flying down the hill at dawn without the benefit of coffee! We arrive in time (and one piece), take our place in line, only to learn...yes...by appointment only!!!! Annie is wildly waving her hands and Francesco is glaring from across the street. I am able to understand alot of "I can't"s and "emergency"s and finally we are allowed in. Well, allowed in after I emptied the backpack of every impliment and electronic device we had brought to Italy (who knew!!)...yes including knitting needles!!! We swore our offical oaths, got the apporpriate papers stamped and headed out. Before heading back to Volterra we had tripe panini and some totally amazing gelato (see Grom gelato!!!). The rest of the gang arrived around 6 and the fun began! We had a wonderful dinner and a lot of laughing about everyones adventures while we were apart.

Friday, 12 September: We all spent the day looking at the ruins and touring the town to show everyone why we love Volterra! And of course...shopping, shopping and then of course, shopping! It sprinkled a little today, but eveyone says it's going to be clear tomorrow.

Saturday, 13 September: Italian lesson for the day: "Sposa bagnata, sposa fortunata" Everyone is telling me...Sposa bagnata, sposa fortunata (Francesco says that everyone says that just so the bride won't cry). It is not raining it is POURING!! We poncho-up and go and look for a black umbrella...I'm thinking that our wedding attire is casual but maybe a poncho, while red, is a little too casual for the occasion. We find a lovely umbrella at the outdoor market and all is well. We just relax and plan on getting ready leasurly at 3. I go to shower...no hot water! Evidentally the plumbing doesn't work so well when it rains! That's ok, minor glitch Jim says, don't worry everything will be fine...plug in the blow drier and that's what it does...blow up! Actually it will work but only in the plug next to Jim's side of the bed...nowhere near a mirror or mirror like object...so much for the hair! I'll just curl it with the curling iron my mom had to buy earlier (a similar electrical reaction to plugging in her US version!)...it heats to about the temperature level of Alaska...Jim says its OK, it's raining again so in two minutes you'll look like a drowned rat anyway, but the flowers I ordered in italian are pretty (and don't include any Peperoncini as was feared earlier)! The photographer arrives (in the rain) and takes a few pictures...and the clouds part and the sun shines for the walk to the City Hall.

The ceremony was beautiful (I will include copies of the poems Jim wrote in the next blog). Everyone cried and it was perfect! The entire ceremony is in Italian and Annie then translates each part as they go. (Jim didn't realize that part of Italian Civil Code 143 requires that he lives with me....) Jim claims he received bad legal advise from his attorney/uncle, Giacomo Simonelli, who just told him to reply "Si" to every question. And at the end of it all....Annie introduced Mr. and Mrs. Leonardini!! The photographer walked us all over Volterra (he took 280 photos...about 265 more that Jim has had taken in his entire life!!) and then we went to dinner.

The dinner (if you can call it that...don't just see "Big Night" watch it twice!!) was at Ristorante Enoteca Del Duca. There was a Prosecco toast with antipasti in the Ingresso. Then when we were seated a traditional antipasti plate with wine was served, followed by pennetti arriabiata, gnocchi con tartufo, more wine, bistecca fiorentina and wild boar with Tuscan white beans and roasted potatoes and more wine, and finally, four hours later, the traditianal wedding torte with, yes, more wine, a dessert moscato! We left the ristorante and walked back to our hotel...using our new umbrella for the first time.

Sunday 14, September: No one ate breakfast...not even Uncle Jim, who ALWAYS eats!! To work off last night's caloric catastrophy...we went shopping! Uncle Jim took Jan, Bill, Pam and Rose to Siena and then home by way of Siena (50km there...70kms back).."that was the longest god@**# 50km I ever drove!!!" Everyone spent the afternoon tying to figure out how to get everything back home on the plane. We had dinner at the local wine bar La Vena Di Vino...singing, drinking and way too much fun (Rose danced like an Egyptian!). We said our thank yous and our good-byes since we will leave early in the morning for our Honeymoon in the Cinque Terra.